Cebu's landmarks and Kawasan Falls, Bohol's tarsiers and Chocolate Hills, The Ruins in Negros, Iloilo's churches and Boracay.
The Visayas are the central islands, linked by short flights and ferries. In Cebu, see Magellan's Cross, the Basilica del Santo Niño, Fort San Pedro and the Taoist Temple, then the turquoise pools of Kawasan Falls. On Bohol, meet the tarsiers and see the Chocolate Hills and Baclayon Church. Visit The Ruins in Negros, a sugar baron's mansion that glows at sunset, Iloilo's Molo Church and the UNESCO-listed Miagao Church, and end with two days on Boracay's White Beach. December to May is best.
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Magellan's Cross
Magellan's Cross commemorates the cross planted by Ferdinand Magellan's expedition when the first Filipinos were baptised in Cebu in 1521. The original is said to be encased inside the wooden cross in a small octagonal chapel, whose ceiling is painted with scenes of the baptism. It stands beside the Basilica del Santo Nino and is one of the most visited sites in the city.
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Basilica del Santo Nino
The Basilica Minore del Santo Nino is the oldest Catholic church in the Philippines, founded on the site where a statue of the Holy Child was found in 1565. The image, believed to have been a gift from Magellan, is kept in a glass case. The church is always busy with pilgrims, and the Sinulog festival each January celebrates the Santo Nino with huge parades.
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Fort San Pedro
Fort San Pedro is a triangular Spanish fortress built in the 16th century, one of the oldest in the Philippines. It guarded Cebu's harbour and later served as an American barracks, a Japanese prison camp and a zoo. Today its walls enclose a garden and a small museum. It is a short walk from Magellan's Cross and Plaza Independencia.
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Cebu Taoist Temple
The Cebu Taoist Temple was built in 1972 by the city's Chinese community in the hills of Beverly Hills subdivision. Its colourful pagodas, dragon-lined stairways and replica of the Great Wall stand high above the city. Visitors can climb to the top for views and watch worshippers light incense. Shoes must be removed inside the shrines, and the temple is open daily.
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Kawasan Falls
Kawasan Falls is a set of turquoise waterfalls in Badian, on the southwest coast of Cebu. The main falls drop into a large pool where visitors can swim or ride bamboo rafts under the cascade. It is the end point of canyoneering trips that jump and slide down the river from upstream. Arrive early in the morning to enjoy the pools before the crowds arrive.
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Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary
The Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary in Corella protects one of the world's smallest primates, known for its huge eyes. Visitors walk quietly along a short forest trail with guides who point out tarsiers resting in the trees. The sanctuary was set up to give the animals a natural, low-stress environment. Keep voices low, avoid touching and never use camera flash.
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Chocolate Hills
The Chocolate Hills are more than a thousand cone-shaped grassy hills spread across central Bohol. In the dry season the grass turns brown, giving them their name. A viewing deck at the top of a stairway in Carmen gives the classic panoramic view. They are a protected natural monument. Visit in the early morning or late afternoon for softer light and fewer visitors.
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Baclayon Church
Baclayon Church is one of the oldest stone churches in the Philippines, built by Jesuit missionaries with coral stone in the early 1700s. It was badly damaged by the 2013 Bohol earthquake and has since been restored. The adjoining museum displays religious artefacts and antique vestments. It is a short drive from Tagbilaran and often visited on countryside tours.
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The Ruins Talisay
The Ruins in Talisay are the remains of a mansion built in the early 1900s by sugar baron Mariano Ledesma Lacson in memory of his wife. During the Second World War it was burned to keep it from Japanese use, but its concrete frame survived. The roofless shell stands in landscaped gardens and is lit beautifully at dusk. Visit in late afternoon to see it at sunset.
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Molo Church
Molo Church, the Church of St. Anne, is a Gothic Renaissance church built of coral stone in the 1800s in Iloilo City. It is nicknamed the feminist church because its interior is lined with statues of female saints. Its twin spires face Molo Plaza, where an elegant gazebo stands. The church survived the Second World War and remains a landmark of Iloilo.
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Miagao Church
Miagao Church in Iloilo is a fortress church built by Augustinians in the late 1700s, partly to defend against raids. Its sandstone facade is famous for a carved coconut tree, the tree of life, along with saints and local plants. It is one of the four Baroque churches of the Philippines on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The church stands on a plaza in the town centre.
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Boracay White Beach
White Beach is the famous four-kilometre stretch of powdery sand along the west coast of Boracay. It is lined with resorts, restaurants and bars, and divided into Stations 1, 2 and 3. The sunsets here are spectacular, often watched from sailboats called paraw. Strict rules now protect the beach, so smoking and drinking on the sand are restricted.