São Jorge Castle, the Castelo de São Jorge, crowns the highest hill in Lisbon's historic centre, its crenellated walls and towers looking out over the red rooftops of the Alfama, the downtown Baixa and the wide River Tagus. Wandering along its ramparts, through shady courtyards where peacocks strut beneath pine and olive trees, is one of the most enjoyable ways to understand the city's long history and to enjoy its most famous views.

The castle is one of Lisbon's most visited monuments and a perfect starting point for exploring the old neighbourhoods on the slopes below.

A Short History

People have occupied this hilltop for well over two thousand years, and archaeological excavations have revealed traces of Iron Age, Roman and Visigothic settlements. In the Islamic period, from the eighth century, the hill became the site of a fortified citadel protecting the city's elite. In 1147, Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, captured Lisbon with the help of crusaders on their way to the Holy Land. A popular legend tells of the knight Martim Moniz, who sacrificed himself to keep a castle gate open for the attackers.

After the conquest, the castle became a royal residence, and for centuries the kings of Portugal lived in the palace within its walls. It was dedicated to Saint George, the patron of knights, in the fourteenth century. When the royal court moved to a new palace by the river in the sixteenth century, the castle declined, and it was badly damaged in the earthquake of 1755. Major restoration in the 1940s gave it its present appearance.

What to See

The main viewpoint terrace, just inside the entrance, is lined with old cannons and offers a sweeping panorama over downtown Lisbon, the Praça do Comércio, the river and the 25 de Abril Bridge. From there, cross into the inner castle, where you can walk along the walls and climb into its towers for views in every direction. The Tower of Ulysses houses a camera obscura, a periscope that projects live images of the city onto a large screen, with commentary on the landmarks.

The archaeological site within the castle walls reveals the remains of Islamic-era houses from the eleventh century, traces of the later royal palace and Iron Age structures. A small museum displays objects found during excavations, from Iron Age pottery to Islamic ceramics, telling the story of the hill through the ages.

Beneath the castle, the small Santa Cruz neighbourhood, inside the outer walls, is a tangle of quiet lanes with houses and a church, a peaceful contrast to the busy castle grounds. The castle gardens, with pine and cork oak trees, are home to free-roaming peacocks, and benches beneath the trees make good places to rest and enjoy the views.

Things to Do

• ✓
  Take in the panorama from the main viewpoint terrace.
• ✓
  Walk the ramparts and climb the towers.
• ✓
  See the city through the camera obscura in the Tower of Ulysses.
• ✓
  Explore the archaeological site and museum.
• ✓
  Watch the sunset over Lisbon from the castle walls.

Practical Tips

The castle is open daily, with longer hours in summer, and requires a ticket, which can be bought online to avoid queues at the entrance. Residents of Lisbon have generally had free entry. The camera obscura sessions depend on the weather and run at set times. Allow one and a half to two hours to explore at a leisurely pace.

The castle is at the top of a steep hill. The 737 bus runs up from the Baixa, and the famous tram 28 passes nearby, though it is often crowded. Walking up through the Alfama or the Mouraria is rewarding but steep, with plenty of steps and cobbles. Public lifts and escalators help on parts of the route from the Baixa. Wear comfortable shoes with good grip, as Lisbon's limestone pavements can be slippery.

Combining Your Visit

Below the castle, the Alfama and the Mouraria are Lisbon's oldest neighbourhoods, full of winding alleys, small squares and fado houses. Nearby viewpoints, such as the Miradouro de Santa Luzia and the Miradouro da Graça, offer more views over the city. Lisbon Cathedral, the Sé, is a short walk downhill on the way to the Baixa.