The smell reaches you first: smoke from burning incense drifting through the lanes. Shops display frankincense resin alongside incense burners and perfumes.

The souq

Al Husn Souq, also called Al Haffa Souq, lies beside the Sultan's palace, Al Husn, in the old Al Haffa quarter of Salalah. It is mainly a traditional frankincense market, and one of the best places in Oman to buy it.

Frankincense

Frankincense, known locally as luban, is the resin of the trees that grow in Dhofar, Boswellia sacra; they still grow in Wadi Dawkah. The best quality comes from this region, and the resin sold here is counted among the finest in the world. It is used mainly for incense and perfume, and is also valued for its healing properties.

What's on sale

Shops sell frankincense in several grades, along with incense burners, perfumes, traditional dress and a few homemade herbal cosmetics. Many of the shops are run by women who make bakhour, an incense blended from frankincense, special woods and perfumes.

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  Compare grades The lighter, clearer pieces are usually the most prized.
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  Bakhour Blended incense made by local women.
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  Bargain Politely, as in any souq.
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  Evenings The souq is liveliest after sunset.
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  Sultan Qaboos Mosque About 2.5 km away.

Visiting

Entry is free. The souq has been redeveloped in stages, so the layout may differ from older descriptions. Al Baleed is about 4 km away, and the Tomb of Prophet Ayub about 17 km, if you want to make a day of it. November to March is the most comfortable season.