Off the Salem–Dharmapuri highway, a small village holds a quiet surprise. Past the entrance tower, a pillared hall leads towards the sanctum. Look up. The ceiling is painted with crowded scenes of heroes, chariots and gods, the colours faded but still bright enough to catch your breath. Few travellers stop here, which makes it all the more special.

The Adhiyaman capital

Adhiyamankottai was the capital of the Adhiyamans, ancient rulers of Tagadur (the old name of the Dharmapuri country). It lies on the Salem–Dharmapuri road, 7 km from Dharmapuri. The ruins of the roughly oval fort can still be seen.

The Chenraya Perumal temple is the biggest of the surviving monuments and is a protected monument. It is believed to have been built by both the Hoysala kings and King Krishna Deva Raya.

The ceiling paintings

The real treasure is in the mandapam that leads to the sanctum. Its ceiling is painted with scenes from the Mahabharata, the Viswarupa darshan of Krishna, his cosmic form, and scenes from the Ramayana, and the Dharmapuri district administration notes that they are still pleasing to the eye. Sources differ on their date: the district administration assigns them to the 13th century, while the British Library's Endangered Archives Programme, which documented the paintings, catalogues them as 17th-century work.

Take a torch or use your phone's light if the hall is dim, and spend time reading the scenes panel by panel.

Tips for your visit

• Respect the paintings — Never touch the painted surfaces, and don't use flash.
• Dress modestly — This is a functioning place of worship.
• Timings — Opening hours can vary; check before you go.

Nearby

Hogenakkal Falls is about 37.6 km away. Yercaud, with its lake and viewpoints, is about 33.9 km away, and the Kurumbapatti Zoological Park about 37.2 km.