Kutch in 5 Days: Bhuj, the White Rann, Dholavira and Mandvi TRIP BLOG Photo: Nagarjun Kandukuru · CC BY 2.0
India · Gujarat · Bhuj

Kutch in 5 Days: Bhuj, the White Rann, Dholavira and Mandvi

5 DAYS 9 places by WaTrips

Bhuj's palaces, sunset on the White Rann, the Harappan city of Dholavira, Lakhpat and Koteshwar, and Mandvi's beach.

Kutch is Gujarat at its widest and emptiest. Base yourself in Bhuj and start with its palaces, Aina Mahal and Prag Mahal. Day two climbs Kalo Dungar for the view over the salt desert, then spends sunset and moonrise on the White Rann itself (you need a permit, easy to get online or at the checkpost). Day three is a long drive to Dholavira, one of the largest Harappan cities, on an island in the Rann. Day four heads west to the walled ghost town of Lakhpat and the Koteshwar temple at the edge of the sea, and day five ends at Vijaya Vilas Palace and Mandvi beach. November to February is the season; the Rann Utsav festival runs through most of it.

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STOP 1 OF 9

Aina Mahal

Aina Mahal, the Hall of Mirrors, was built in the mid-18th century for Rao Lakhpatji of Kutch. Its designer, Ramsinh Malam, had learned European crafts in the Netherlands, and decorated the rooms with mirrors, glass, tiles and gilded ornament. The palace was badly damaged in the 2001 earthquake but a section survives as a museum, with royal possessions and a long painted scroll of a state procession.

Best weather: Nov – Mar
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STOP 2 OF 9

Prag Mahal

Prag Mahal is a 19th-century palace in Bhuj, commissioned by Rao Pragmalji II and designed in an Italian Gothic style by Colonel Henry Saint Wilkins. Built in sandstone and marble, it has a durbar hall with chandeliers and classical statues, and a tall clock tower that can be climbed for views over the city. It stands next to Aina Mahal and was restored after the 2001 earthquake.

Best weather: Nov – Mar
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STOP 3 OF 9

Kalo Dungar

Kalo Dungar, the Black Hill, is the highest point in Kutch at 462 metres and gives a panoramic view over the Great Rann. A 400-year-old Dattatreya temple stands at the top, where priests have long fed jackals with offered food each evening. The road up is known for a slope where vehicles appear to roll uphill. As it is close to the border, an army post sits beyond the viewpoint.

Best weather: Nov – Mar
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STOP 4 OF 9

White Rann of Kutch

The White Rann is the vast salt desert of the Great Rann of Kutch, which floods in the monsoon and dries to a blinding white crust in winter. The main viewing area near Dhordo has a watchtower and is the setting for the Rann Utsav festival, held in the cooler months. Sunset and full-moon nights are the most popular times. A permit is required and is issued on the road in.

Best weather: Nov – Mar
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STOP 5 OF 9

Dholavira

Dholavira is one of the largest and best preserved cities of the Indus Valley Civilisation, on Khadir island in the Great Rann of Kutch. Occupied for well over a thousand years from around 3000 BCE, it had a citadel, middle and lower towns and an elaborate system of stone reservoirs. A large signboard in Indus script was found at one gateway. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a small museum.

Best weather: Nov – Mar
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STOP 6 OF 9

Lakhpat Fort

Lakhpat is a walled ghost town at the far north-western edge of Kutch, facing the Rann. It was a wealthy port on the Indus trade until an earthquake in 1819 changed the river's course. The 18th-century fort walls, about seven kilometres long, still enclose a largely empty town with a gurdwara linked to Guru Nanak and several fine tombs. The ramparts are good for sunset views.

Best weather: Nov – Mar
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STOP 7 OF 9

Koteshwar Temple

Koteshwar is an ancient Shiva temple at the westernmost tip of Kutch, standing on a rise above Kori Creek. Legend ties it to Ravana, who is said to have lost a lingam gifted by Shiva at this spot. The stone temple looks out across the sea towards the border, and the shore is known for its sunsets. It is usually visited together with the nearby Narayan Sarovar lake and temples.

Best weather: Nov – Mar
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STOP 8 OF 9

Vijaya Vilas Palace

Vijaya Vilas Palace is the summer palace of the Jadeja rulers of Kutch, completed in the 1920s near the coast at Mandvi. Built in red sandstone in the Rajput style, it has a central dome, Bengal-style roofs, carved jali screens and coloured glass windows. Part of it is open as a museum, and the roof terrace overlooks the gardens and the sea. It has appeared in several Hindi films.

Best weather: Nov – Mar
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STOP 9 OF 9 · LAST STOP

Mandvi Beach

Mandvi Beach is a long, clean stretch of sand on the Gulf of Kutch, by the old port town of Mandvi. A line of wind turbines runs along the shore, and camel and horse rides, water sports and snack stalls keep it lively in the evening. The town is also known for its centuries-old tradition of building wooden dhows by hand, which can be seen along the Rukmavati river.

Best weather: Nov – Mar

Seasons from 20 years of NASA POWER climate data.

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